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'Notes on a journey from Kaïsaríyah, by Malátíyah, to Bir or Birehjik, in May and June, 1839'
Full text with geographical annotations
William Ainsworth (1807-1896), a British surgeon, geographer and geologist, made in 1838-39 a number of journeys in Anatolia and Mesopotamia. This travel report is one of a number published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, of which he was one of the founders.
This travel report starts as a quite dry account of geographical and geological exploration. Ainsworth was fully equipped with all the instruments available in his time to make measurements for map making.
The author travels from Kayseri to the southern part of the Sivas vilayet, and on to Malatya and Adıyaman. After that the character of his journey changed dramatically. The traveller and his companions were caught up in the final confrontation of the Ottoman army and the rebellious Muhammed Paşa of Egypt, near Nizip. The battle of Nizip ended disastrous for the Ottomans. The troops, for a large part irregulars from various parts of Anatolia, fled in disarray. Ainsworth and his companion escape with difficulty from the ensuing chaos in the area, travelling day and night. The second part of Ainsworth report is a first hand account of this dramatic episode.
Ainsworth, like most of the travellers of his time, has a keen interest in history and antiquities. His report contains some interesting descriptions of monuments and archeological sites on his route. His travel report is also interesting for those researching the centralization policies of the Ottoman government and the relation with the Kurds in this period.
Old Malatya (now named Battalgazi), Ainsworth p.320
Gelermek → Gemerek (centre of Gemerek district, Sivas province)
Insánlí → Kömürkaya (village in Şarkışla district, Sivas province)
Ṭúz Ḥiṣár → Büyüktuzhisar (village in Bünyan district, Kayseri province); Sulṭán Khán → Sultanhanı (village in Bünyan district, Kayseri province)
Girlamik + Khurmá-lí = not identified
Kayá Bunár → Kayapınar (village in Şarkışla district, Sivas province)
Topásh → Ortatopaç (village in Şarkışla district, Sivas province)
Abasil-lí → Samankaya (village in Altınyayla district, Sivas province)
Vírán Shehr → Örenşehir (village in Pınarbaşı district, Kayseri province)
Bázáryeri → Pazarsu (village in Pınarbaşı district, Kayseri province)
Kará Bunár → probably Uzunpınar (village in Pınarbaşı district, Kayseri province)
Vírán Shehr → Örenşehir (village in Pınarbaşı district, Kayseri province)
these ruins are now known as "Şerefiye Kalesi" (Şerefiye Castle) next and partly in the village of Şerefiye, Pınarbaşı district, Kayseri province (see Google Earth satellite view below)
(click on the image to expand)
Yúz-Kát → Yozgat (capital of Yozgat province)
Manjúlik → Mancılık (village in Kangal district, Sivas province)
Gurun → Gürün (centre of Gürün district, Sivas province)
Gurun → Gürün (centre of Gürün district, Sivas province)
Al-Bostán → Elbistan (centre of Elbistan district, Kahramanmaraş province)
Injeh Ṣú Kóï → İncesu (village in Gürün district, Sivas province)
Kópek Virán → Göbekören (village in Gürün district, Sivas province)
Bel Búnar not identified
Tanil → Suçatı (village in Gürün district, Sivas province)
Khuzin → now part of Gürün town (centre of Gürün district, Sivas province)
Derendah → Darende (centre of Darende district, Malatya province)
Tokhmah→ Bahçeiçi (village in Gürün district, Sivas province)
O'rtah Kóï→ Ortakøy (settlement without villagestatus in Darende district, Malatya province)
Derendah → Darende (centre of Darende district, Malatya province)
Shábuk → Yarımca (village in Darende district, Malatya province)
Yeníjak → Yenice (village in Darende district, Malatya province)
Setrek → Aşağıulupınar (village in Darende district, Malatya province)
Jafalí not identified
Arḳá → Akçadağ (centre of Akçadağ district, Malatya province)
Nizib → Nizip (centre of Nizip district, Gaziantep province). Visited by Ainsworth later on
Aspúzí is now Malatya (capital of Malatya province)
Maláṭíyah → Battalgazi (centre of Battalgazi district, Malatya province) Formerly known as Eskimalatya
Aspúzí is now Malatya (capital of Malatya province)
Gózeneh → Gözene (village in Yeşilyurt district, Malatya province)
Virán Shehr → Doğanşehir (centre of Doğanşehir district, Malatya province)
Ṣarghí → Sürgü (village in Doğanşehir district, Malatya province)
Erkenek → Erkenek (village in Doğanşehir district, Malatya province)
Pelvereh → Harmanlı (village in Gölbaşı district, Adıyaman province)
Besní → Besni (centre of Besni district, Adıyaman province). Besni of Ainsworth's time was located at an other location than presently.
Al-mánlí → Atmalı (village in Besni district, Adıyaman province)
Shám-búlák→ Şambayat (village in Besni district, Adıyaman province)
Bur-Kónák→ Börkenek (village in Adıyaman central district, Adıyaman province)
Adiyamán → Adıyaman (capital of Adıyaman province)
Kárá U'yúk → Karahüyük (village in Adıyaman central district, Adıyaman province)
Kerkunah → Narsırtı (village in Kahta central district, Adıyaman province)
Tókáríz → Akıncılar (village in Kahta central district, Adıyaman province)
Tornedah not identified
*with thanks to M. Özçiriş for his assistance in identifying this place
Oldish → Köklüce (village in Gerger district, Adıyaman province)
Gergen → Oymaklı (village in Gerger district, Adıyaman province)
Tókáríz → Akıncılar (village in Kahta central district, Adıyaman province)
Dĭriskó not identified
Chámúní not identified
Panduri not identified
Satellite view of Rumkale (Google Earth) (click on the image to expand)
Samosata → Şamşat. This place was flooded by the Atatürk Dam Lake; the name was transferred to a new settlement nearby, presently the centre of Şamşat district of Adıyaman province
I'z O'ghlú → İzolu, Kuşsarayı (village in Baskil district, Elazığ province, on the Euphrates, east of Malatya
Shiró → Doğanyol (centre of Doğanyol district, Malatya province)
Ḥadró → Kayalı (village in Siverek district, Şanlıurfa province)
Hoshun → Uluyazı (village in Hilvan district, Şanlıurfa province)
Someïsáṭ → Şamşat. This place was submerged by the Atatürk Dam Lake; the name was transferred to a new settlement nearby, presently the centre of Şamşat district of Adıyaman province
Ledar → Dikili. Was village in Bozova district of Şanlıurfa province. Submerged by Atatürk dam Lake.
U'ch → Binekli (village in Bozova district, Şanlıurfa province)
Nizib → Nizip (centre of Nizip district, Gaziantep province)
Niṣíbín → Nusaybin (centre of Nusaybin district, Mardin province)
Bír → Birecik (centre of Birecik district, Şanlıurfa province)
Bír → Birecik (centre of Birecik district, Şanlıurfa province)
'Aïn-táb → Gaziantep (capital of Gaziantep province)
Nizib → Nizip (centre of Nizip district, Gaziantep province)
Besní → Besni (centre of Besni district, Adıyaman province)
Pervereh → Harmanlı (village in Gölbaşı district, Adıyaman province) (see above p.324) Erkenek → Erkenek (village in Doğanşehir district, Malatya province) (see above p.325) Ṣarghí → Sürgü (village in Doğanşehir district, Malatya province) (see p.324) Gózeneh → Gözene (village in Yeşilyurt district, Malatya province) (p.323) Aspúzí → Malatya (see p.320)
'Arab-Keíl → Arapkir (centre of Arapkir district, Malatya province)
Dívrígí → Divriği (centre of Divriği district, Sivas province)
Sívás → Sivas (capital of Sivas province)
Ṣámṣún → Samsun (capital of Samsun province)
Gerzeh → Gerze (centre of Gerze district, Sinop province)
Merzeván → Merzifon (centre of Merzifon district, Amasya province)
Za'ferán-Bólí → Safranbolu (centre of Safranbolu district, Karabük province)
Ḳastamúní → Kastamonu (capital of Kastamonu province)
Bólí → Bolu (capital of Bolu province)